Over-Exfoliated Skin: How to Identify and Treat It

What Is Exfoliating?

Your skin is comprised of five layers. While the last layer of your skin has the healthiest and youngest skin cells, the outer layer is composed of dead skin cells. By exfoliating, you’re removing the dead skin from the outer layer to reveal the younger-looking skin cells underneath.

 

Exfoliation can be done in a number of ways, either at home or the spa using physical exfoliators, chemical exfoliants, or exfoliation tools (known as mechanical exfoliation). Physical scrubs, such as those containing crushed walnut shells or apricot kernels, can physically remove dead skin, while chemical exfoliators like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and citric acid help remove dead skin cells chemically.

 

What Does Exfoliating Do?

Exfoliation essentially aims to remove dead skin cells to reveal the healthy, youthful cells hiding underneath your skin's surface. Whichever exfoliation method you choose—whether using physical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants, or a combination of both—this process will result in a radiant complexion. Regular exfoliation allows your skin to better absorb skincare products, preserving the skin barrier and preventing more harm.

 

Aside from clearing away dry skin and dead skin, a regular exfoliation habit increases your skin’s clarity, giving you a youthful appearance. When you exfoliate your skin, the process diminishes the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots, evens out skin tone, and unclogs pores, making it especially beneficial for sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, and oily skin. In other words, exfoliation is a big deal, regardless of skin types.

 

Whether you use beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid, or physical scrubs, such as those made with crushed walnut shells, exfoliating your face plays an essential role in promoting cell turnover and preventing skin damage. However, be mindful—overdoing it, especially with harsh physical exfoliants, can lead to redness, irritation, even micro tears, which cause more damage to your skin. That's why dermatologists recommend using gentle exfoliating products and adjusting according to your skin types.

 

Why is Apricot Scrub Bad For Sensitive Skin?

If you’re thinking about physical exfoliants and wondering why apricot scrub is not ideal, it is because the physical exfoliant made with apricot kernels can cause small tears in the skin, leading to inflammation and more damage, especially for sensitive skin or acne prone skin. In these cases, a board-certified dermatologist-level advice is to avoid physical scrubs and opt for chemical exfoliation instead.

 

Exfoliation Unclogs Pores

Exfoliating helps slough away dry skin, dead skin cells, or debris that may be sitting on your skin. Exfoliating can effectively unclog pores as well as prevent your pores from clogging in the first place by stopping debris from settling into your pores. This is particularly helpful for oily skin and acne prone skin.

 

For Oily Skin, It Can Prevent Acne

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, regular exfoliation and cleansing will help keep your skin clear and prevent acne. Exfoliating can effectively get rid of acne-causing bacteria, particularly through chemical exfoliation with gentle alpha acids like glycolic acid.

 

A board-certified dermatologist will tell you to go for gentle chemical exfoliants. When choosing chemical exfoliants, you can go for beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (i.e. salicylic acid) to remove excess oil and prevent breakouts as well, which complement the anti-bacterial properties of your benzoyl peroxide. Exfoliating your face will also help prevent acne caused by excess oil and clogged hair follicles.

 

It Can Help Actives Penetrate Deeper

By exfoliating dead skin cells on your face, actives will be able to penetrate into your skin barrier more deeply. Without dead skin on the outer layer of your skin, any actives that you use in your skin care routine will have fewer barriers, meaning those ingredients can penetrate deeper into the skin barrier—and that’s exactly what you want.

 

When something rich in nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid penetrates your skin deeper, it’s able to work more effectively for a longer period of time.

 

It Removes Dead Skin Cells

Exfoliating is the key to glowing skin by helping to improve the regenerative cycle of skin cell renewal. Using your exfoliating acids such as beta hydroxy acids or physical exfoliants regularly helps keep your skin looking its best by getting rid of dead skin, which in turn stimulates cell turnover. This increased cell turnover is the primary reason why exfoliating dead skin can help you achieve that healthy glow and dewy look.

 

It Evens Out Skin Tone

Worried about dark spots, dry skin, flaky patches, hyperpigmentation, or other texture and pigment concerns? Exfoliating products smooth your skin’s texture, which means your skin will appear more uniform over time. The uneven tone can be caused by dead skin cells, so exfoliating dead skin can bring newer skin to the surface. This process will allow for glowing, smooth skin that pushes impurities out.

 

Exfoliation is especially important for those with dry skin. And while you might be tempted to exfoliate dry skin mechanically using physical scrubs, it's actually best to avoid doing so, as physical scrubs can be too harsh and lead to micro tears. Instead, opt for a chemical exfoliator with AHAs like glycolic acid to remove dead skin cells sitting on the surface of your skin, which will also encourage new, healthy skin cell turnover.

 

It Stimulates Collagen

As you age, the amount of collagen that you naturally produce goes down. Collagen is essential for keeping your skin looking plump, tight, and young. Exfoliation creates mild trauma in your skin that triggers it to start producing collagen again, which helps skin heal, ultimately plumping skin, tightening it, and decreasing fine lines.

 

Exfoliating your skin regularly can help stimulate collagen synthesis, providing you with anti-aging benefits in the long run. As your skin produces more collagen, it will appear more firm with reduced fine lines and wrinkles. Proper collagen production also helps your skin bounce back more quickly and protects itself from external barriers such as pollution, tobacco smoke, and UV radiation, preserving your skin barrier. The end result? Youthful-looking, radiant skin.

 

It Boosts Circulation and Lymphatic Drainage

Exfoliation isn’t just good for your skin—it’s good for your whole body. When you scrub away dead skin cells, you’re also stimulating the lymphatic system, which helps filter out toxins and regulates tissue fluid levels.

 

This stimulation results in oxygen-rich blood nourishing your skin's surface as well as providing skin detoxification. And since the lymphatic system works closely with your immune system, keeping it healthy is essential for overall well-being.

 

It Prevents Ingrown Hairs

Exfoliating not only removes unnecessary dead skin cells, but it can also prevent ingrown hairs. Common culprits of ingrown hairs include exfoliating too hard, exfoliating every day, or using the wrong exfoliation method. But by properly incorporating exfoliation into your skin care routine, you can get rid of ingrown hairs.

 

The key to preventing ingrown hairs is to exfoliate with the right amount of pressure (not too hard), using the proper exfoliating products, and exfoliating enough. Remember, using a physical scrub or too many physical exfoliators too aggressively can be a bad idea, leading to more damage such as skin irritation, redness, or inflammation.

 

How Often Should You Exfoliate Your Face and Body?

We recommend exfoliating your face once or twice per week. For beginners, chemical exfoliants are typically a little more gentle on the skin than physical exfoliants. The effect of exfoliation may vary per skin type, so see how your skin reacts and adjust accordingly.

 

As previously mentioned, you have five layers of skin. The goal of exfoliation is to help slough off that outer layer so new, healthier skin cells can come to the surface of your skin. Exfoliating every day as opposed to once or twice per week can do more harm than good, working against your efforts and causing irritation and dryness.

 

5 Signs You Need to Exfoliate

Before exfoliating skin, you need to understand how your skin will react and how often you should exfoliate your skin. Does your skin appear clogged? You may need to exfoliate more. Getting red or irritated skin after exfoliating? Consider exfoliating less. Here are five common signs you need to exfoliate.

 

1. Your Products Aren't Absorbing into Your Skin

If you’re seeing a residue of skincare products on your skin, you need to exfoliate. Dead skin cells can build up on the top layer of your skin, creating a barrier that prevents your skincare products from penetrating it. As a result, your skincare products sit on top of your skin rather than being absorbed. Exfoliating can remove dead skin cells and this dead skin barrier, allowing your skincare products to more easily penetrate your skin.

 

2. Your Skin Looks Dull

If your skin looks gray and lacking in moisture, you may have dead skin cells sitting on your skin barrier. Dead skin can build up over time, creating a thick layer that makes your skin look lackluster. By adding exfoliation to your skin care routine, you can peel away the tough outer layer to reveal healthier, younger cells. This will help you regain a fresh, youthful appearance and glow.

 

3. You Have Breakouts or Your Pores Look Clogged

If you’re experiencing frequent breakouts or clogged pores, this may be due to dead skin cells clogging your skin’s surface. Having clogged pores means you’re more likely to have whiteheads and blackheads, and your skincare products won’t absorb properly.

 

If you have acne-prone skin, using a mild cleanser daily is not enough. Exfoliating your skin regularly with beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid will help remove debris and prevent your pores from becoming clogged. Use your benzoyl peroxide consistently to remove acne-causing bacteria.

 

4. You Have Scaly Patches or Bumpy Skin

If your skin is feeling rough and scaly or you’ve noticed some small bumps beginning to appear on your skin, you may have flaky skin. These are signs you need to exfoliate. Exfoliating helps to remove the build-up of dead skin cells that can cause your skin surface to be uneven and dry. Exfoliating will leave you with clear, unclogged skin that is more likely to be smooth and radiant.

 

5. You’re Getting a lot of Sun

If you’ve been spending more time outdoors, you may have noticed your skin feels thicker than usual due to sun exposure. Exfoliating can help even out your skin tone and boost your complexion, but be careful not to exfoliate when you have a sunburn. Wait until your skin has healed before using a physical scrub or chemical exfoliator.

 

Over Exfoliation: How Much Is Too Much?

Exfoliation is an essential part of any skin care routine, regardless of your skin types. Whether you have oily, dry, or sensitive skin, exfoliation can help keep your skin looking and feeling its best. However, over-exfoliation can cause more harm than good. Some physical exfoliators or physical scrubs like those with crushed walnut shells can be too harsh and cause skin damage or micro tears.

 

You should exfoliate more frequently if you have oily skin, but not every day. Over-exfoliating can strip away natural oils and damage the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness, and dryness.

 

Signs of Over Exfoliation

As a general rule, exfoliate once or twice a week until you understand how your skin reacts. Look out for signs of irritation, inflammation, redness, or dryness. Proper exfoliation should speed up cell turnover without harming your skin barrier. Over-exfoliation strips away too many skin cells, which can result in more sensitivity, making it easier for bacteria to penetrate.

 

Over-exfoliation can cause problems like acne, redness, flakiness, and irritation. Here are some warning signs:

 

Redness

Mild redness is normal after using physical exfoliants, but if it persists or you experience itching or burning, the exfoliation method may be too harsh and damage your skin’s barrier. If this is the case, reconsider the exfoliating products you're using or the frequency with which you exfoliate.

 

Dryness and Flakiness

Signs of over-exfoliation include dehydrated or dry skin, flaking, and peeling. If you already have dry skin or sensitive skin, exfoliating too often, especially with physical scrubs, will worsen those conditions. If you start to notice flaky patches after exfoliating, cut things back.

 

Acne

Over-exfoliating can weaken the skin, leaving it vulnerable to bacterial infections and increasing the risk of acne. Using harsh chemical exfoliants or physical exfoliants over active acne can spread bacteria and lead to more breakouts. If you notice new breakouts developing after exfoliating, this may be the problem.

 

Cut back on exfoliating or keep the exfoliation method gentle with a chemical exfoliator and beta hydroxy acids to manage acne without causing too much trauma to your skin.

 

Increased Oil Production

Stripping your skin’s natural barrier can prompt the skin to overproduce oil in a bid to restore balance and replenish its own moisture. This is why even people with oily skin should avoid harsh physical exfoliants and look for gentle exfoliation options. You still need proper hydration, and we always recommend you steer clear of really harsh detergent and chemical-heavy products.

 

While there are many possible culprits here - overly hot water, harsh products, environmental stressors - keep in mind that if the rest of your self care sunday skincare routine is gentle and you’re not mistreating your skin, your exfoliant may be to blame for severely over-exfoliated skin.

 

Shine

Everyone wants that dewy, shiny, fresh-from-a-workout glow - and the right exfoliant should help deliver that. But if you’re noticing an unnatural, saran wrap-style sheen after you exfoliate, it’s a sign (once again) that your skin is being stripped away. If you see this type of shine, then it’s time to cut back because it’s over-exfoliation damage.

 

Why You Should Pay More Attention to Over-Exfoliation Damage

The problem here is that over-exfoliation can actually remove too many skin cells and strip away your skin barrier, which is essentially a wall of dead skin cells held together by lipids. 

 

It functions as a security guard, protecting what’s inside and preventing any “bad guys,” like UV radiation, pollution, bacteria, dirt, and toxins, from passing through.

 

The skin barrier also maintains proper hydration, balances lipid levels, and maintains your natural hydrating factor. If you over-strip that barrier through exfoliation, you can create a lot of concerns that proper exfoliation is supposed to help with; things like pimples after exfoliating, acne, flaking, burning, and dryness.

 

How to Heal Over Exfoliated Skin

First things first: if you notice any of these signs of over-exfoliation, you should stop for about a week to allow your skin to recover. Once you resume, stick to an exfoliation routine of 2-3 times per week, and consider more gentle exfoliating products to stop over-exfoliation damages.

 

Next, add some restorative and repairing skin products to your routine. Look specifically for hydrating ingredients that repair your skin’s barrier, replenishing moisture and protecting the skin from any external aggressors.

 

This includes:

 

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is an ultra-effective humectant that can help deliver moisture to the skin and resolve any tightness, flaking, or irritation that over-exfoliation may have caused. After exfoliation, replenish your skin’s moisture with our Night Shift Hydration Gel - a deep hydrating hyaluronic mask - and our Daydreamer Natural Face Moisturizer. You may be able to soothe an over-exfoliated skin rash with the help of the right hydrating cream

You’ll also need gentle yet effective occlusives that will form a protective barrier on the skin, keep the moisture in, and help restore your natural barrier. This is especially important if your skin is sensitive or prone to becoming oily.

We use oils that are similar in composition to your own sebum in our High Society Face Oil, like jojoba, marula, and squalane, as they're less likely to cause acne or leave your skin red and irritated. These oils will help soothe your skin after the effects of over-exfoliating, restoring the skin’s protective barrier.

Peptide

 

MSM

 

Antioxidants

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